Osteria Vibrato, London W1: “Worth singing loudly about” – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

The cooking is precise, proud and purposeful Osteria Vibrato appeared last month on Greek Street, Soho, feeling to any passerby just like any other neutral-fronted Italian restaurant in this pasta-swamped part of the capital. Not much to see here. Pushing your face against the window wouldn’t achieve much, either, apart from an unsightly smear. Meanwhile, all the in-the-know people – that bunch of infuriating, generously paunched “foodies” who keep London restaurant gossip alive – understood...

By Grace Dent